I am posting some information that might be helpful to someone when making their own bands. Most of this is from other sites, but I thought it might be nice to have this information in one place.

Video on how to make your own bands
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e163/sfarish/th_bandtying.jpg (http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e163/sfarish/?action=view&current=bandtying.flv)

How to tie a constrictor knot

Couple pictures courtesy of Bill McIntyre ( I hope you don't mind )

Inserting line into band pictures

How to Measure Band Length (From a post on another site from Bill McIntyre )

1. Take a measure tape and measure the distance from the middle of the
band slot to the center cocking tab.

2. Double the distance ( for both sides of the gun )

3. Subtract the length of the wish bone. (Alexander and Riffe's are
approx 6", Daryl Wong uses about 3".)

4. Divide the number by 3 1/2.

5. This is the length of your powerband if you are using a standard 3 1/2
: 1 stretch ratio. This is a measurement of the powerband from knot to
knot. For actual rubber length, add 1" to this length or 1 1/2" in you
are tapering the ends of the powerbands.

If you have separate holes for each band as with the newer Aimrite/Wong muzzles, then rather than measuring from the center of the band slot (you don't have a slot) to the middle tab, measure from each hole to the appropriate tab, and you will have a different band length for each hole.

Spear One's double constrictor knot (in the first video) is stronger than the Rob Allen constrictor knot above.

Great informational post. I actually do mine a little different but the principal is the same. I get the waxed sailors twine from West Marine. You can tie many different knots with it as it cinches down on itself really well.
As far as wishbones go? That could be a whole other thread of debate.

Remember to put some silicone sealant into the rubber hole when using cord wishbones, and on the knot, or it will get water in the band and get weak. Trust me on this. Plus it helps the knot slip in. I know this apparently isnt (wasnt) done in California, as a year or so ago, they all thought I was a kook to say that. But if you do it, you will have better power, and lasting power. If you dont, the band will lose power, and wont be snappy. And yes the Rob Allen way is not doing a turn around the far bitter end. But It could work like that. Also you could do a double constrictor which is 2 passes of line then tied the same way(or with the extra turn around the bitter end.) Then take the 2 ends and go tight, and wrap around once, and make a suture knot, which is like a square knot but you twist each end twice instead of once, both first and second, pull tight and trim.

As for the cord, I use a full Dynema(Spectra) cord. Do not use the dacron covered (colored mantle) spectra or Dynema-Dynema is Spectra, as the covering will abrade and wear out fast. The type I use does not have a mantle, it is a single weave. The kind with the mantle, is usually dacron or nylon covered with a straight spectra kern, not braided. Those are used for ski ropes, sailing, and stuff, not good for bands. You want a tight solid spectra weave.

Great Thread guys...

Good info; thanks for posting.
Does making your own save you money?

for bands w/ wishbone , here's the strongest I found. Its the HD JBL 642. I can't break this one.

for bands w/ wishbone , here's the strongest I found. Its the HD JBL 642. I can't break this one.

That one looks like its for slotted shafts (and slicing fingers)?

If you like wire and want a round one for shafts with shark fins, Mori's is the stoutest one I've seen.

On the gun on the left.

I've never seen that one. Nice product.

How does the wood stand up to it Bill?

How does the wood stand up to it Bill?

Good question. I tried them on my magnum, which has the shaft buried down in an enclosed track, and they were tearing up the finish, so I went back to Spectra.

That gun that I have them on has an open track, so they sit up above the wood and don't touch it at all.

I do like the way they hold the bands apart and give you a nice line of sight down the top of the gun.

BTW, he gets $9 each for them.

They look like a work of art! Like some kind of jewelry! I use the stainless steel cables for the notched guns, they dont break and do catch good, and they do flex like cord bones. But these are nice and beefy, if I was to use solids, I would go with these or with tight slot types like Biller or Sea Hornets I would use the type MD Spear showed as they are the directional type. If you use a different type of solid wishbone with them, it could jump out and get you! I know!

What kinds of rubber are the best? I usually just buy the riffe bands but that rubber seems to dryout faster than the metal wishbone bands on my biller?He had red bands I also wanna know where I can get the cool colored bands too:D

I was curious what the savings are with regards to tying your own Bands.
I know it shotgun reloading it was incredible; close to 75% on 28 gauge. Just curious with bands, 36 dollars every 4 months isn't bad, but I do love saving. :D

I was curious what the savings are with regards to tying your own Bands.
I know it shotgun reloading it was incredible; close to 75% on 28 gauge. Just curious with bands, 36 dollars every 4 months isn't bad, but I do love saving. :D


A commercial band will cost you about $15-$18, you can make your own for about $3-$4.

I think in making your own bands, you will really save money, unlike in reloading where you actually don't save money, you spend more, but you get better ammo and you shoot quite a bit more.

I was curious what the savings are with regards to tying your own Bands.
I know it shotgun reloading it was incredible; close to 75% on 28 gauge. Just curious with bands, 36 dollars every 4 months isn't bad, but I do love saving. :D

Around 2.50 per foot. So a band will cost you $5 as opposed to $13 or so.

Do you hunt or shoot trap/skeet?

What size waxed twine do you guys use?

I change bands about every 5 trips. I do not believe in saving the band as long as I can. As soon as it begins to lose power, I toss it and make a new one. And these are 3/4" bands on a 54" comm. rhino. $5 in band cost is no big expense when you consider a shaft drop due to a weak band may lose you a good grouper. I have a whole box of band material and it takes me maybe 5 minutes to make a band and have it installed on a gun.

Around 2.50 per foot. So a band will cost you $5 as opposed to $13 or so.

Do you hunt or shoot trap/skeet?

Dove/Quail, Trap not so much and I'm a 4 time skeep champion at Markham Park.

Cool, Iv'e been wanting to try shooting at markham or bird hunting. I have a 12ga O/U sitting in my closet.

Dove/Quail, Trap not so much and I'm a 4 time skeep champion at Markham Park.

I change bands about every 5 trips. I do not believe in saving the band as long as I can. As soon as it begins to lose power, I toss it and make a new one. And these are 3/4" bands on a 54" comm. rhino. $5 in band cost is no big expense when you consider a shaft drop due to a weak band may lose you a good grouper. I have a whole box of band material and it takes me maybe 5 minutes to make a band and have it installed on a gun.

I agree completely. It's also nice having fresh bands on tournament day and it's one less thing you have to pay for. I have a 30 inch Biller that I primarily use freediving the Bay and I use my old bands from my Deathstick for new bands on that gun. Just cut em down and tie in an old cable wishbone. So essentially I'm getting 2 bands for the price of one.

Being able to experiment with different lengths of bands is important too.