Just looking for some input on rigging gun and floatline. Been fishing the "corner" for a few years and finally going to start shooting the dophin that have been so thick this year. Depth 2000+ feet, mahis mainly 20-40 lbs, occasional wahoo, wont be shooting any yellowfins as they tend to be hauling ass constantly in search of food. A friend gave me a RA 110, needs new bands, What length bands/ floatline? Bungee or a more rigid line

20-22 inch 5/8 inch bands with 2 wraps of mono. Alot of people would say that a 110 is a bit small for blue water but you can still do plenty of damage with it. Invest in s sliptip because hoos are soft and tear off easily. Im sure others will chime in on the subject.

I'd try blue water spearing but I've landed a couple Mako in my life and the thought of seeing one in the water with me makes me cringe.
I'd imagine sharks aren't a big factor out in the open ocean eh?

right after the shooting line have a section of bungee then your floatline

I have a question about it too, i was waiting for someone to open a thread like this. If you are not using the breakaway setup, what is the best way to attach the gun to the floatline? I am using a riffe competitor 3xs, so I have a pre-drilled hole at the base of the gun. Is a simple loop of line sufficient? Or is there a specific rig? Thx
Nate

When I set-up my old gun for use with a floatline I made up a whole new piece of Mono shooting line. I basically used the same wrap set-up as the factory assembled the gun but added 1 half more wraps. this brought the end down to the trigger where I attached a bungee loop about 3 inches in front of the trigger release. Then after the bungee loop I put on about 1 foot of mono with a loop at the end so the shaft isnt connect to the gun. then I just clip the float line to the loop and when the gun is fired the shaft and line all disconnect from the gun and no chance of loosing unless I let it float away.

i will post pics if you need me too...

I'm setting up a new gun for cobia and cuda etc. I'm gonna take a 55" enclosed track rear handle with extension, triple bands(5/8" maybe 22-24"), and 2-3 wraps of mono, slip tip from a guy in Cali, and I plan on having a clip on the back of the gun for a float/bouy. I can release the whole setup if I can't get the fish up. And I can still use the setup on scuba for big AJs.

When I set-up my old gun for use with a floatline I made up a whole new piece of Mono shooting line. I basically used the same wrap set-up as the factory assembled the gun but added 1 half more wraps. this brought the end down to the trigger where I attached a bungee loop about 3 inches in front of the trigger release. Then after the bungee loop I put on about 1 foot of mono with a loop at the end so the shaft isnt connect to the gun. then I just clip the float line to the loop and when the gun is fired the shaft and line all disconnect from the gun and no chance of loosing unless I let it float away.

i will post pics if you need me too...

I think im catching on, but pics would be great :)

I will post them tonight when I get home from work...I put it on my old 48 Sea Hornet, but you will understand what I did and can adapt it...

The hole in the butt of the Riffe or a ring eye bolt on the butt is for a 6-8" piece of band material, that is tapered. The front end (thick end) has a swivel and a clip, attatched to a bungee and to a float line which is a either polyproplene braided or twisted rope, or a plastic tubing which has a heavy cord inside. Both/either are attatched to the bungee and the other end has a float, which could be an inflateable or foam, or even a boat fender. Big fish will need 2 or 3, in line with some rope between them. At the swivel of the bungee, going back to the gun is a double wrap of 300-400 lb test mono. The rubber tubing in the hole or in a ring eye on the butt holds the shooting line tight, but will pull out when you get a fish. You pull it in and stretch it to make it tight. The float line is usually about as long as you would dive + a little, or in shallower water the depth + a little.

Here ya go, hope this helps ya out a little. It works fine and the weakest point in the set-up is the crimps of course. its 400# clear mono with 2.0mm crimps and a 250lb swivel clip on the shaft side which simply connects to the line shaft. then 5 wraps later the end is at the trgger/line release. attach bungee loop that is normally used for sea hornet's line shaft rigging and then another length of mono for a "liter" with a loop at the end for floatline attachment.

ok, I understand completely, thank you wicked and steve:smthumbup:

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Floatline- Just wrote this chapter in my new book- BreakAway rigs vs. In line Rigs.

Breakaway- on your last run back to your line release with the shooting line, cut it short of the line release add a small diameter bungie cord to reach the line release in the form of a loop. tie the float line to the original shooting line not the bungie. After shooting your prey the line releases from the gun. Don't forget to hold on to the gun!

In-Line Rig- used more often. In this method the gun is part of the line. It is simple to rig. Simily just tie a tuna clip to the end of your gun or run a 400lb. mono loop thru the handle or butt. attach you float line and thats it. After shooting simply release the gun. Note I didn't say release the line. As you can apply some tension on your way back to the surface if needed.

Float lines- can be purchased or made. Run from very expensive to just Home depot poly line (cheapy). Put a tuna clip on each end and hang a third one off your float. When you shoot a big boy you can use the 3 rd clip to give your hands a rest.

Hope this helps.

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:wtf:

if you have the hole on the back of the gun just get a riffe pig tail and attach your mono line to it ,and your bungee clip to it when you fire your gun your shaft will be attach to your bungee, that way you don't loose your gun. just make sure you don' loose your gun.