Here are some pictures of the beginnings of what I hope becomes two accurate 55" Burmese teak spearguns. I am in the process of making two, one with 3 pieces laminated together and the other with 5. No specific reason for building 2, just wanted to see the difference. The easy part is over with, now on to cutting the enclosed groove before I start shaping it. Any ideas/comments are welcome since this is my first gun. Thanks to Ken (BigPig) for pointing me in the right direction, lets just hope i get there successfully!

Here they are epoxied and laminated

Straightening out the wood.

1 option would be to go with a UHMW track from Neptonics systems. What trigger are you using? Muzzle design? Mid/rear handle?

If you can, join and plane the stocks before you start with the track. This will ensure that the stock is square on all sides. Also, cut the mechanism pocket before you cut the track.

Measure twice, cut once.

Bridges,

I originally was going to go with an UHMW track, but decided to try a poured epoxy track. What the heck, go all the way right?

I ordered a Neptonic Systems trigger, Aimrite handle, and they both will probably be rear handle design, but I might do one with a rear handle and the other mid handle, not quite sure yet.

Just wondering, but what is the reason to cut the pocket before the track?

thanks,
aaron

this allows you to cut the track in one pass, stopping when the bit enters the trigger pocket. If you don't cut the pocket first, you have to cut the track all the way to the other end of the gun.

Yea, that probably would have been a mistake I would have made! thanks for the info.

Bridges,

I originally was going to go with an UHMW track, but decided to try a poured epoxy track. What the heck, go all the way right?

Wouldn't the UHMW or Delrin track be more durable than the epoxy? Does one have an advantage over the other?

From my "limited" understanding, with an epoxy track you don't have to worry about movement (expansion and contraction). If you use a UHMW track you will have movement in colder or warmer water.

I would recommend going with a wooden track.

In my opinion, wood tracks are just as good, easier to cut, and cheaper. You are going to have to route a "track" to pour the epoxy, then you will have to route the actual spear track after that. It's twice the work.

If you are doing a lot of close quarters shooting and worry about a wooden track getting torn up, then you could open up the front third of the track. Of course, if you are doing close quarters shooting, you probably don't need a 55" gun. It just simplifies the process of building the gun, and you don't have to worry about a perfect fit of the UHMW track, perfectly mixing the epoxy to ensure it sets up right, proper epoxy additives, etc. It is just a whole 'nother can of worms for not that much benefit.

All my guns have wood tracks - short jetty gun up through 65" bluewater.

Kolt,

Can you post a couple pictures of your guns with wooden tracks? I would like to see what they look like.

thanks

These threads are for my bluewater gun and the gun I just finished for my Dad:

http://www.spearfishingplanet.com/showthread.php?t=126

http://www.spearfishingplanet.com/showthread.php?t=343

All these guns have wood tracks and have been responsible for many a bloodletting. Here are pics of my black gun (that I shoot every trip) and my jetty gun.

That black gun is a beauty, all your guns are. Thanks for sharing. I think I might try that track.

here's a couple more of the black gun:

Alright I waited 5 weeks after laminating the wood, and I couldn't wait any longer. The wood hasn't moved at all in the past 2 weeks so I figured I would just jump in and start cutting. I have another gun that I am letting sit for the full 8 weeks, but I decided to go ahead and jump in on this one....Here is the trigger mech pocket and the 1/4" track. I am waiting for my ball bit to come in so I can route the 5/16" track. Lets hope everything goes as good as it has so far!

Looks great.:smthumbup:

These threads are for my bluewater gun and the gun I just finished for my Dad:

http://www.spearfishingplanet.com/showthread.php?t=126

http://www.spearfishingplanet.com/showthread.php?t=343

All these guns have wood tracks and have been responsible for many a bloodletting. Here are pics of my black gun (that I shoot every trip) and my jetty gun.

That is one of the coolest barrel designs I have ever seen. Very cool!

Who's trigger are you going to use??

Neptonic Systems, with blue aimrite handle

Have you seen the blue handle in person or just in the picture?

I have one. Hopefully it will be on my gun next week! Do you want a picture of one? closeup?

Nice!!! I'll have to put that on my things to accomplish list when I rotate to 29 Palms california for a year come april. "Design a custom speargun" Would the dry weather there affect the build process negatively you think? Good looking gun. Can't wait to see more.

I have a couple of different colors. I was just curiuos. Its lighter in person than the picture shows it. Before you mount the trigger mech permanetly you may want to mortise the gun at the handle mount area so that it fits better. Easy to do on the table saw.

Yea it is a little lighter than I expected, but it is still a nice looking handle.

I am going to cut the handle "pocket" today, and I am going to use a dado blade.

I was too lazy to change to a dado. Just took a few more swipes. Other than that pay attention to the rear screws. Being at an angle like they are when you tighten them they tend to force the handle forwards making it bow if either the front screw is in or it is up against the dado cut. Then you have a gap between the center of the handle and the wood base. Make sure to push the handle back as far as possible and hold it there when you drill for the rear screws.

I was too lazy to change to a dado. Just took a few more swipes. Other than that pay attention to the rear screws. Being at an angle like they are when you tighten them they tend to force the handle forwards making it bow if either the front screw is in or it is up against the dado cut. Then you have a gap between the center of the handle and the wood base. Make sure to push the handle back as far as possible and hold it there when you drill for the rear screws.

Yep, you have to be a little more careful with those plastic handles. It will be fine though.


I love the Alexanders.......

Thanks for the tips guys. It is so much easier when you are getting tips from guys that have already been there and made the mistakes you were just about to make!

I may try some Alexanders on the next batch. My understanding is they are interchangable with the Aimrite.

I may try some Alexanders on the next batch. My understanding is they are interchangable with the Aimrite.

They are solid and have a great feel.

While I was applying the epoxy for testing I decided to go ahead and use it on one of the guns I am building. Thought it might look neat with a little graphite sprinkled in it. Let me know what you think.

Looks good man...One of these days I'll get brave and try one myself..

From my "limited" understanding, with an epoxy track you don't have to worry about movement (expansion and contraction). If you use a UHMW track you will have movement in colder or warmer water.

I would imagine that the machining slop is way, way larger than any temperature induced distortions you might see. Way more. I would go with whatever is more durable, and I am not sure which one is between Delrin and epoxy.

Here is the final product. minus bands and spare shaft.

1 more

Looks like its going to be a fish killer!

very nice!!!!

what is the metal clip below the stock?

what is the metal clip below the stock?

prob for slip on ppd

prob for slip on ppd


Yea, it is for a slip on PPD